Link To YouTube Video With Ross Wegge (big thank you for helping me make this video):
- Open Hood
- Remove torx screws holding the top of the right front fender including one at the very rear under the seal at the base of the “a” pillar
- Remove right front tire
- Remove rear wheel house liner from the right front wheelhouse.
- There are 2 push tabs in the inside of the wheelhouse, to remove pry the middle (male) tab up and pull out, then pry the base (female) part of the tab out. These parts are reusable.
- On the bottom, there are 2) 7mm and 2) 10mm bolts.
- Using a plastic tool such as a plastic putty knife, gently pry the rear outside fender liner outside trim from the fender. The tabs should easily release.
- Remove the rear wheelhouse panel
- From under the car, drill out 3 rivets holding the front of the rocker panel to the fender.
- Use a 3/16” drill bit, they drill out very easy
- Remove 7mm screw attaching the fender to the dash panel
- Pull back the fender; using a flashlight, look rearward from the front of the right front wheel house you will see 1) 7mm bold attaching the rear of the right front fender to the dash.
- This will require a long extension (at least 12”) to remove. The use of masking tape or “Strip Caulk” inside the socket will help prevent dropping the screw after it is removed. Toilet wax works as well
- This should allow you to pull the fender back even further.
- From the rear of the wheel house you will see 2 modules attached to each other. The one furthest inboard is the MRC module. The outside one is the ECU.
- From the rear of the right front wheel house, remove the 2)10mm bolts holding the ECU to the MRC module
- Pull the module out and let hang
- From the rear of the front fender, looking forward, pull the fender out and you will see the MRC module. The connector will be facing rearward.
- Remove the connector by pressing on the tab and opening
- Pull the connector off and let it hang.
- There is a tab on the inboard side of the MRC connector which holds the MRC controller. This tab must be pushed inboard to release the MRC controller
- Still looking forward from the rear of the right front fender, with your left hand, use a long screwdriver and push forward on the tab.
- With your right hand, grab the MRC controller by the connector and pull straight back.
- Pull until the MRC controller is free to the housing and remove.
Install new MRC controller
- Slide the new MRC controller in to the housing.
- Hold the MRC controller by the connector and sliding forward making sure it stays inside the tabs on the top and bottom of the housing.
- You will hear the rear tab that you used to release the old MRC controller click when the new MRC controller is seated.
- Install the MRC connector to the controller.
- Ensure the connector is oriented correct. The MRC controller has 3 rows of pins. 2 are close together the 3rd row of pins is separated by a plastic piece. Use these rows to make sure the connector is properly oriented.
- Push the MRC connector onto the controller and close the handle locking the connector the controller.
- Reinstall the ECU to the MRC controller
- Moving back to the rear of the front wheelhouse looking rearward, attach the ECU controller by sliding the top into the tabs in the housing and re-installing the 2) 10mm bolts.
- Reinstall the 7mm bolt attaching the fender to the dash.
- Again use the long extension. It is best to use masking tape, or a pliable material such as Strip Caulking to hold the bolt in the socket.
- Reinstall the rear fender liner
- Position the rear fender liner into place.
- Install the 2)7mm bolts and the 2) 10mm bolts from the bottom.
- Install the 2 push tabs inside the wheel house. Before installing the push tabs, insert the male part of the tab into the female part just far enough to hold it in place.
- Slide the push tab assembly part into the hole, when it is through, push forward on the male part and it will click in.
- On the outer wheelhouse trim, the furthest forward tab has a hook, install this tab first.
- Push each tab into its retainer until the outside fender trim is completely secure.
- Install tire and wheel
- From the bottom, install 3 rivets that hold the rocker cover to the fender.
- Install torx screws from the top of the fender Tools needed
- Floor jack and jack stands or a hoist
- Tools to remove tire and wheel
- 1/4” ratchet
- ¼” X 7mm and 10mm sockets
- 1 long ¼” socket extension, at least 12”
- 1 long screwdriver, at least 10”
- 3/16” Rivet tool
- Torx bit or driver T??
- (Recommended) for removing wheelhouse tabs – inter trim “Christmas Tree” puller. A screwdriver can be used as well.
Last year I purchased a C6 Grand Sport convertible. I bought the car in Texas and drove it back to Michigan. In the fall of 2018, Jim asked if he could upgrade my car to get my thoughts. The transformation is unbelievable! The pleasure of driving the car in either tour or sport can’t be understated. On my drive back from Texas I never put it in sport. Now I do almost all my driving in sport. If I just want a nice cruising car, tour is perfect. In both tour and sport, the car just glides over the bumps that used to beat me up bad. Also, I noticed how much better the steering is, which surprised me. Now I can’t imagine driving the car without the new programs. Read More Testimonials ->
After a total of 10 hours of seat time. In both tour and sport. Mix of freeway 55-90mph with hours rural backroad and small-town slow driving. I like this new cal so much. Both tour and sport absorb the bumps very very nicely and are still stable and composed. Everyone will notice a considerable difference. Read More Testimonials ->
Jim come to my house to put the calibration in my 2010 ZR1. When I bought the car, I had to drive it back from Texas to Michigan. 18 hours on the road was a bit of a headache. The car was a blast except for hitting potholes, railroad tracks, and impacts in general. Since the calibration, my car drives and handles 100x better. The impacts seem to be non-existent. Going over railroad tracks are a breeze and the sport mode is a true sport mode now. I’m amazed every time I take out my car. Love every bit of my new calibration. Read More Testimonials ->
The ride and handling for both modes is a dramatic improvement. As soon as I left Jim’s house in tour mode, I instantly felt a more “modern” feel to the car. Very comfortable now and yet more the handling is more responsive. I do not feel the hard rebound over larger bumps. It doesn’t pound my dash when I go over railroad tracks like it used to. I feel that there is more steering response at lower speeds and of course at high speeds.
When I put it into sport mode, I feel a good difference. Now I feel a nice transition between tour to sport. Before the upgrade, I never put it in sport unless I was showing my friends how harsh it was. I am driving it in sport mode more often now. The ride is so much better as well as the cornering. I want to say it feels like a new stab bars were installed. It’s that much more balanced through the corners. Read More Testimonials ->
Just wanted to let you know how happy I am with the driving improvement. Drove over 250 miles yesterday. I am no expert but would say the car feels much more stable, planted, kind of hard to describe but driving over rough pavement sections has a sense that the suspension is working much more refined. These are really nice cars and your program just adds to the experience. Read More Testimonials ->
On a regular basis, I’m on roads with rough, heavily-worn asphalt, pot holes, sections of cracked and broken-up pavement and fragmented road edges. For around-town driving, I have MR set in the “Tour” mode and with Jim’s MR cal the car gets over all those crappy road surfaces with a bit more comfortable ride. On roads which are in better condition, but with bumps and heaves, the ride seems more controlled.
When hammering my ZO6 through the twisties in the mountains near my home–State Route 33 from Oaji, California over to where joins with SR166 is a favorite of mine–I put MR in “Sport” mode. With the Mero-calibrated “Sport”, when driving over high-frequency, low-amplitude chatter bumps, ripples, cracked pavement and stuff like that, I don’t feel those disturbances quite as much. Also, Sport, with a Mero MR cal, seems more appropriately-damped in that kind of driving than did Sport with the stock MR cal. Lastly, the car’s response to steering input, especially in an autocross movement or an emergency evasive maneuver seems different. The best way I can describe this situation is that steering is more “crisp”–for lack of a better word.
In short, I was impressed with Jim Mero’s C6 MagnaRide calibration, not only because of the improvements discussed above, but because his stuff is for “real world” driving and not specific to track use. Read More Testimonials ->